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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.